Southern Group
Rarotonga
Geologically the youngest of the 15 islands at only 2 million years of age, Rarotonga’s mountainous volcanic peaks and verdant hillsides make it the largest in the Cook’s group. It measures approximately 23 miles in circumference. Though one of the last islands in the entire chain to be discovered by Europeans (that distinction went to the mutinous crew of the Bounty, in 1789) its importance to Polynesian voyagers dates back around 1400 years when it is said to have first been found by Io Tangaroa from Nuka Hiva in the Marquesas Islands.
Originally called Tumu Te Varovaro (Source of the Echo) by its discoverers, the islands name was later changed to Rarotonga, meaning “down south”. When Europeans did finally make landfall in 1814, they were astonished to find a fully constructed inland road made from crushed coral, known as the Are Metua, or Great Road of Toi, believed to have been built sometime in the 11th century.
The islands history holds that two opposing warrior chiefs, one Samoan and the other Tahitian, arrived at the same time and after conquering the pre-existing inhabitants agreed to divide the island in half, with the district of Ngatangiia belonging to the Tahitians, and Avarua to the Samoans. Later, the island was broken into six tribes.
Sometime between 1000 and 1400 AD an assembly of seven vaka, large ocean-going canoes, made their departure from Rarotonga and headed south to settle Aotearoa (New Zealand), where many of the New Zealand Maori tribes still bear the names of those original canoes. Plaques with the names of all seven vaka now stand to commemorate the historic departure site near the entrance to Avana Harbour and the Muri Lagoon.
Rarotonga offers today’s modern day visitor a unique blend of authentic culture while providing a sophisticated holiday destination. So it is not uncommon for visitors to see locals planting and harvesting their plantation crops of taro (a traditional food supply throughout the ages) while travelling in air-conditioned comfort to a lagoon-side luxury resort. With quality restaurants, an eclectic shopping district in the main township of Avarua, international banking facilities, museums, art galleries, a vibrant marketplace, and of course, many beautiful beaches to relax upon, Rarotonga is a fascinating beginning point to start your Cook Islands immersion.
Aitutaki
Aitutaki is the Cook Islands most popular tourist destination after Rarotonga. And considering it is a world-renowned atoll that is at times referred to as the ‘Bora Bora’ of the Cook Islands, it is easy to understand why it is such a favorite.
Aitutaki is a triangle-shaped atoll, with islands built around a breath-taking lagoon. The main island sits in the northwest corner and is home to all the Aitutaki villages, hotels, restaurants and the main village Arutanga. Along the eastern side is a string of small motus (islets) many made famous in recent television series such as Survivor: Cook Islands (2006) and Shipwrecked (2000, 2001, 2006 and 2007). Despite this new fame, Aitutaki has a long history of voyagers and famous characters arriving on its shores.
Oral traditions hold that Polynesians settled on Aitutaki around 900 AD. In the beginning, the Polynesian chieftain Ru reached Aitutaki about 900 AD, travelling with his four wives, four brothers, and 20 tamaine tapa-iru (royal virgins). Ru’s grandson, Taruia, also became the ariki (chief) in later years but was tricked into leaving the island by Ruatapu, another chief from eastern Polynesia, who then declared himself the new ariki before Taruia came home. The three ruling Ariki families on the island today are descendants of Ruatapu.
The next big event was the arrival of Captain William Bligh and the crew of HMS Bounty who were the first known Europeans to arrive in Aitutaki in 11 April 1789, just days before the infamous mutiny took place.
Aitutaki is also known as the first Cook Island to adopt Christianity, following the arrival of missionary John Williams in 26 October 1821. Much of Williams’ success was due to the work of Papeiha, a missionary from French Polynesia, who stayed behind when Williams left the island. Papeiha converted two islanders to Christianity, including the reigning high chief Tamatoa, and within two years most of the island population followed suit.
Aitutaki Lagoon has been listed as one of the most beautiful sites in the world. Rippling water, the kaleidoscope of bright tropical fish, blossoming frangipani and secluded beaches make this a remarkable vacation setting.
“This tiny uninhabited motu is one of the most photographed islets in the South Pacific, no doubt because it is everybody’s idea of what their island would look like if they were Robinson Crusoe – white sand, bending palm trees, azure water.” Conde Nast Traveller, listing Aitutaki’s One Foot Island motu, as one of it’s top 30 beaches in the world.
Whether you’re floating through the azure water on a lagoon cruise, enjoying the views from a shady beach bungalow or catching a scenic panoramic from the peak of Maunga Pa the highest hill on the island – Aitutaki is a paradise not to be missed.
Atiu
Situated 187 kilometers, or only 50 minutes by air, northeast of Rarotonga, ‘Atiu is an island of unexpected life and lush forest. Unlike the endless turquoise lagoon waters of Rarotonga and Aitutaki, ‘Atiu offers a quiet, jungle paradise with thundering breakers on the nearby coral reef. It is one of the more popular destinations in the Southern Group, but remains off the beaten track and is well loved by those who make the journey.
The most striking feature on the island is the stunning fossilized coral cliffs, also known as makatea. These jagged walls stand 6 meters high and were caused by geological upheaval thousands of years ago that literally raised the island and surrounding reef up out of the ocean – an activity that continues, but at a significantly slower pace.
‘Atiu has a long and infamous history for violent and warlike ways and many ‘Atiu warriors have led bloody raiding parties on the neighboring islands, particularly Mitiaro and Mauke who were ruled by ‘Atiu ariki (chiefs) until New Zealand took control over the country in the early 1900s. However, since that time, ‘Atiu has drastically changed its reputation, and has since become renowned for its environment and culture.
No other island in the Cook Islands archipelago has such a diverse collection of natural habitats – fertile swamp, a fresh water lake, sandy beaches, lagoon, thick jungle vegetation, underground caves (the most famous of which is Anatakitaki) and an interior volcanic plateau with red clay earth.
Atiu is also known as Enuamanu, the island of Birds or the island of Insects, because it is said these were the only things living on the island when the Polynesia voyagers first arrived. Atiu is home to a large number of bird species, including the unique cave-dwelling Kopeka, the Rarotonga Flycatcher also known as the Kakerori, and the Rimatara Lorikeet that was reintroduced to its native habit in April 2007.
It is unclear when exactly ‘Atiu was settled by Polynesian voyagers, though it is thought that these voyagers came from Samoa and the Society Islands in French Polynesia. The island was then “re-discovered” by Captain James Cook, and was one of only two islands in the group where Cook actually stepped ashore – on 3 April 1777, at Oravaru Beach on the western side of island.
‘Atiu has retained stronger cultural traditions than a number of the other islands. And even though the population is only 500 people, visitors are sure to have more contact with local Cook Islanders. ‘Atiu is famous for their tapa (bark clothe), tivaevae (hand stitched quilts), coffee plantations and tumunu or bush-beer drinking sessions, which are similar to Kava ceremonies held in many other parts of the Pacific Islands.
Mangaia
Mangaia is the oldest island in the Pacific, with geologists estimating it to be at least 18 million years. The island is well known for its contrasting geological features – dramatic fossilized cliffs, low-lying fertile swamps, and plunging caves – but it is better known for the fruit of its peoples labor. Mangaia is famous for its pineapples, which are said to be the juiciest grown in the Cook Islands, and for pupu ei’s, handmade shell necklaces made from tiny yellow snail shells.
Mangaia is a terraced island. The remarkable 60 meter coastal cliffs fall away to coastal swamps, and these are cut off from the raised interior by inner cliffs of makatea. A narrow road winds impressively through steep cliffs between the coast and interior that are referred to by locals as “upstairs” and “downstairs.” The island’s traditional name Auau or Auau Enua actually means “steps” or “terraced” and refers to the terraces created by the makatea.
Another of Mangaia’s dramatic features are its caves. The most impressive is Te Rua Rere, a burial cave that was discovered in the1930s by local Tuaratua George and author Robert Dean Frisbie. Tuaratua’s grandson, Tuara, still runs cave tours. Te Rua Rere is the largest on the island running for more than a kilometer, maybe even two; it is said that no one has yet been to the end of the cave. There are dozens of other caves studded with stalactites and stalagmites, including a cave at the far end of Lake Tiriara.
The history of Mangaia is unique from the other Cook Islands. Oral tradition says that this island was lifted from the deep by Rangi, Mokoiro and Akatauira – the three sons of the god Rongo. These three sons settled on the island and are the ancestors of the Nga Ariki tribe. Mangaia’s written history began on 29 March 1777 when Captain James Cook was on his second Pacific voyage, despite sailing on to Atiu without stopping.
“The island defies time. To walk the roads of the interior is to move through a world of light and heat, of green and red, of total quiet,” writes John Walters about Mangaia. A visit to Mangaia offers a gentle immersion into Cook Islands culture and an opportunity to wander deep into the heart of this ancient island.
As the most southern island in the Cook Islands archipelago, Mangaia is certainly off the beaten track; fortunately it is still easily accessible. Air Rarotonga has frequent flights to the island, but accommodations must be secured beforehand.
Mauke
The garden island of Mauke, 40 minutes flight from Rarotonga, is only half the size of the capital with a total circumference of 18 kilometers compared with Rarotonga’s 32 kilometers. The islands other main difference is its topography, consisting of a central volcanic plateau, and similar to Mangaia, it is made up of a raised makatea or fossilized coral reef, with a number of fresh water caves to explore with galleries reaching beneath the reef.
There are no rivers on the island. Rainfall drains into inland swamps before seeping into the lagoon, creating a verdant, fertile environment ideal for propagating the maire bush which grows wild on the islands interior regions. Exports of the sought after vine, woven into fragrant garlands, are shipped via Rarotonga on to Hawaii and have created a thriving local industry for the islands ‘mamas’ who do the work.
Mauke’s other claim to fame has the island boasting the world’s largest Banyan Tree, covering an estimated one and a half acres. At the junction of Ngatiarua and Areora villages stands the unique Zion CICC church, affectionately referred to by the local people as the “divided church” due to its aspect being shared by the two villages. Separate entranceways allow access to the building, with a central pulpit demarcating the designated seating for the congregation.
In pre-European times the island was under repeated attack by raiding parties from nearby Atiu who dominated the island until the arrival of Christian missionaries, after which time it settled into a quiet peaceful existence. The island has no sealed roads and no dogs, though does sport plenty of free-ranging pigs and roosters, as do most in the Cook Islands group. Accommodation is limited, and shops are few, so it is recommended that visitors stock up with anything beyond the basics before arriving.
The overriding allure of this island is its peaceful welcoming nature, and Maukeans cleave to the ancient customs of hospitality, – ui tupuna – making visitors to their island immediately feel at home. Mauke is a soothing tonic for those seeking a picturesque, unhurried, tranquil escape from fast paced city life.
Mitiaro
Mitiaro is the 4th largest in the Cook Island group, but even so, at its widest point it is still only a mere 4 miles across. Of volcanic origin, it is surrounded by makatea, or fossilized coral, characteristic of islands in the southern group. It also contains two freshwater lakes in its flat interior that teem with itiki – freshwater eels, a Cook Islands delicacy along with introduced tilapia, or African bream.
While limited in beachfront real estate, Mitiaro makes up for this with its subterranean limestone caves and refreshing swimming pools, along with an uncomplicated way of life.
Manuae
Now an uninhabited atoll 100 kilometers south east of Aitutaki, Manuae was the first island in the group that Captain James Cook sighted from the Endeavour, on 23rd September 1773. He gave it the name Hervey Island in honor of Augutus Hervery, 3rd Earl of Bristol and Lord of the British Admiralty. For a time, the name Hervey Islands was applied to the entire southern group, before being renamed the Cook Islands by the Russian cartographer von Krusenstern.
The island is now a marine sanctuary and an important breeding ground for sea birds and marine turtles. Periodic research expeditions are made from Rarotonga for diving and filming and occasional fishing trips are made from Aitutaki.
Taukatea
Takutea is a small, uninhabited sandy cay that sits barely six meters above sea level, and is clearly visible from the island of Atiu.
The island has been declared a wildlife sanctuary to protect seabirds like the tavake (red-tailed tropicbird), red-footed booby, brown booby, great frigatebird, and various noddy birds. It is home to one of the biggest breeding colonies of the red-tailed tropicbird in the world.
The island is maintained by the people of Atiu, but is rarely visited due to rough waters between the two islands and the dangerous landing site on Takutea. Visitation is only possible through government approval.
Palmerston
The island of Palmerston lies around 500 kms. northwest of Rarotonga, and is the most northern, and only true atoll, in the Southern Group. Palmerston was first discovered by the English sea captain, James Cook, on 16 June 1744 on his second voyage through the Pacific and was named after the first Lord of the Admiralty, Lord Palmerston. Cook himself did not set foot on Palmerston until some years later, in 1777, on his third and final Pacific voyage.
Palmerston has a particularly unique history amongst the Cook Islands relating to the origins of its inhabitants. In 1863, an English ship’s carpenter named William Marsters arrived from Manuae and settled on this tiny uninhabited island with 3 wives, raising 17 children and 54 grandchildren. Today, his descendants are scattered far and wide, and the Marsters name is synonymous with the island of Palmerston. Some of those descendants who remain on the island export fish for an income and have a strong tradition of welcoming visiting seafarers to their island. It is said that they are all fluent English speakers, with a distinct Gloucestershire accent passed down from their founding forbearer.
The total land mass of Palmerston amounts to just one square mile (2.6 sq km) consisting of six sandy motus, or islets spread around a large lagoon about seven miles (11 kms) across at its widest point. The highest point on Palmerston is a sandhill only 20 feet (6 mtres) tall that the locals nicknamed “the mountain.”
The island has no airport and there is no safe entry for larger vessels to access, but cruising yachts will find good anchorage in many parts of the lagoon along the western side with depths between 30-50 feet, though it is not an official port of entry so clearance should first be arranged before arrival.
