Vanua Levu

Fiji’s second largest island, Vanua Levu is only half the area of its big brother Viti Levu (about the size of Maui with a population of some 130,000) And its proliferation of rainforests, majestic bays and unhurried way of life will introduce you to a side of Fiji relatively untouched by tourism. Vanua Levu is a true jewel with numerous untouched sites for those seeking peaceful seclusion and willing to venture away from the tourist areas.

The island’s main population centers are the northern town of Labasa, and Savusavu, located at the foot of the peninsula. Labasa, with a population of almost 25,000 has a large Indo-Fijian agrarian community and is a major center of Fiji’s sugar industry.

Most tourists, however, arrive at the small gateway city of Savusavu. It is perhaps Fiji’s best kept secret, with its hot springs, harbour, pearl farm, eclectic community and nearby rainforest reserves.

If you’re looking to shop, browse the many stores in town as prices tend to be inexpensive compared to the more established tourist spots. And be sure to wander into the Central Market. Just to the left of the market, at the Savusavu Yacht Club in the Copra Shed Marina, you can enjoy a meal or just toast the sunset with yachties from around the world. A little further down the wharf is the Waitui Yacht Club, where everyday seems to be the weekend.

The only real nightlife, outside of the pubs in town, is at the Hotsprings Hotel. It has a simple restaurant but with commanding views of the harbor from the deck. Weekends, it serves as the social hub of the island. The new Bula Re Café is winning raves for its nouvelle Fijian cuisine.

Fiji has a nascent black pearl industry with a harvesting farm out in Savusavu Bay. You can get a tour of the farm and then view the actual pearls at J. Hunter Pearls back in town. Other interesting tours available from town (through Curly Carswell across from the Waitui Club) are a kayaking trip out to Vatulele village, an interesting native herbal medicine tour to Naidi (Nine-di) village, or a hiking expedition to Waisali Rainforest Reserve in the central mountains.

Sail aboard the schooner Tui Tai on 3, 4 and 5 day itineraries between Savusavu, Taveuni, Koro, Kioa (an island inhabited by transplanted Polynesians from Tuvalu) and the isolated Ringgold Islands. The ship carries kayaks, mountain bikes and snorkel gear and dining is communal on deck under the stars.