Samoa
General Introduction
Samoa is a picture of natural beauty with ten islands, each offering distinct yet different environments to explore. The rugged volcanic mountain peaks of the two main islands covered in rainforest are in contrast to the huge valleys leading down to a coastline of white sandy beaches.
Banyan trees grow out of these lush green fertile valleys, and tower over the canopy of the rainforest that blooms with tropical plants and other variations of vegetation. Waterfalls cascade into rivers, then cut jagged lines through the valley as they make their way to the ocean.
The spectacular coastline sparkles with white sand beaches that stretch for miles. In some places there are sheer cliff walls that drop down into the Pacific Ocean. Lying in the blue lagoons, beyond the beaches are the rest of the islands of the Samoa archipelago. Some of these are inhabited, others only by native wildlife, but all protected by the fringing coral reef that keeps out the Pacific Ocean.
Nestled amongst the natural beauty of the valleys and the picturesque coastline you will find nu’u. These are the traditional Samoan villages with their white churches, meeting houses and homes circling the village green or malae. These islands are home to a strong Fa’a Samoa, or cultural heritage, which co-exists alongside the natural wonders of the island. It is the people, nature and culture that give life to these islands.
History
Approximately 1500 BC, saw the eastward Lapita peoples’ expansion period from Southeast Asia and Melanesia. It was from these Austronesian predecessors that the Samoans originated. However in 2003, carbon dating and new scientific evidence has lead to Samoa’s origins being now re-assessed.
The first contact with Europeans was in the early 18th century with a Dutchman named Jacob Roggeveen sighting the Samoan Islands in 1722. Next was a French explorer, Louis-Antoine de Bougainville who named them the Navigator Islands in 1768. There was limited contact until the 1830’s when English missionaries and traders began to arrive.
John Williams of the London Missionary Society was the first to start mission work. The Samoans had by this time gained a reputation as being warlike and savage. Numerous altercations had arisen between the locals and the British, French, German and American forces. By the late 19th century this resulted in Samoa being viewed only for a refueling station for coal-fired ships and whaling vessels.
It was the Germans who began to show commercial interest in the Samoan Islands, especially Upolu and it wasn’t too long before they had a monopoly in copra and cocoa bean processing. The US laid their own claims on the islands of Tutuila and Manu’a, which were later annexed to the US as American Samoa. The British also sent troops to protect the harbor, their consulate office as well as all British business enterprises.
An 8-year civil war followed with the three powers each supplying arms and trainings to the warring Samoan groups. The military conflict was ended when a major storm either damaged or destroyed all the three power’s warships. The Tripartite Convention, at the beginning of the 20th century, partitioned the Samoan Islands into two separate parts. The eastern island became a territory of the US, now known as American Samoa. The large part, the western islands became known as German Samoa. However this was only up till the 29th August 1914 when New Zealand, under the request of Britain, arrived unopposed and seized control from the German authorities.
New Zealand controlled Samoa as a Class C Mandate under trusteeship through the League of Nations, up till 1962. At this time, Western Samoa signed a Friendship Treaty with New Zealand and became the first country in the Pacific to be independent. In July 1997, through an amendment to the constitution, the official name of the country was changed from Western Samoa to Samoa.
Robert Louis Stevenson, who was the author of the famous books, Treasure Island, Kidnapped and De Jekyll and Mr Hyde settled in Samoa in the 1890’s. He was given the name of Tusitala, meaning ‘teller of tales’ by the Samoans. Upon his death he was given a burial usually reserved only for royalty, and his plantation home is now a museum.
Population
According to the World Bank, in 2008 the population of Samoa was estimated to be just about 179,000 people. The birth rate is currently 28.06 births per 1,000 population, and the death rate is 5.79 deaths per 1,000 population. There is a low growth rate due to a large outward migration of the population to both New Zealand and the United States.
The population is mainly of Samoan or Polynesian ethnicity, although there are about 7 percent with European origins. Twenty-one percent of the population live in urban areas, with most living in Apia. The growth rate to the urban areas is twice the general growth rate, but this is still relatively low compared to other Pacific island nations.
Culture
Traditional Samoan way, or fa’a Samoa, is a strong influence in Samoan life and politics. Samoa has managed to maintain its language, historical customs and social and political systems despite centuries of European influence.
Christianity is the dominant religion. However Samoans, who are deeply spiritual and religious people, have been able to adapt Christianity to be part of their fa’a Samoa. So you will find ancient beliefs co-existing with Christian beliefs. When Christianity was introduced in Samoa, most people converted, so now 98% of the populace are Christians. Only 2% consider themselves irreligious or don’t belong to any congregation.
Samoan culture is based upon the Principle of Vafealoa’I, or the relationships between people. These relationships are based on fa’aaloalo, or respect. This enables them to live a communal way of live with little privacy, with almost all activities done collectively. They live in traditional Samoan houses called fales, which are open with no walls. Blinds made of coconut palm fronds are used during the night or during bad weather.
Like the other Polynesian cultures – Hawaii, Tahitian and Maori, tattoos play an important part of their life. Samoa has two culturally significant tattoos. Pe’a, the tattoo for males, consists of intricate, geometric patterns that cover areas from the knees up to the ribs. Malu, the tattoo for females covers the area from just below the knees to upper thighs. Siva is the Samoan word for dance and involves unique gentle movements of the body in time to music, while telling a story. However, some Samoan male dances are much more physical. The Sasa is the traditional Samoan dance where dancers in rows perform synchronized movements to the rhythm of drums or rolled mats. Another male dance, the fa’ataupati or slap dance, involves slapping different parts of the body to create rhythmic sounds.
Contemporary culture in Samoa has seen the rise of a number of accomplished writers, poets and musicians. Albert Wendt writes stories that tell of the Samoan experience and in1989, his novel Fox in a Freedom Tree was made into a feature film. Sapa’u Ruperake Petaia, Eti Sa’aga and Saves Sano Malifa are other writers and poets who have had their work published.
John Kneubuhl was a famous playwright and screenwriter and Sia Figiel won the 1997 Commonwealth Writer’s Prize. Momoe Von Reiche is an internationally recognized poet and artist. The Five Stars, Penina o Tiafau and Punialava’a are all popular Samoan bands.
Many famous Samoans live in different parts of the world. Lemi Ponifasio is a director and choreographer living in New Zealand, while Neil Jeremia’s company Black Grace has won international acclaim and has toured Europe and New York. Tautai is a collection of famous visual artists. Sima Urale is an award winning filmmaker, whose film O Tamaiti won the best Short Film at the Venice Film Festival in 1996. Oscar Kightley is another famous film director with his movie, Siones Wedding. The feature song for this, Sweet Inspiration by the Yandall Sisters reached number one on the charts.
Hip Hop is a very popular form of contemporary dance in Samoa, and there have been a number of hip hop artists and rappers emerge from this small country. From this, there has been the mixing of hip hop with traditional Samoan dances, which has become prevalent with the younger generation.
Sport is a very popular segment of the Samoan culture. Rugby Union is the national football code of Samoa and the national team, nicknamed the Manu Samoa is a major contender in international competitions. In 2007, when the Samoan team won the cup at Wellington and also at the Hong Kong Rugby Sevens, the Prime Minister declared a national holiday.
Rugby League is also very common, and many Samoans play in the Super and National Leagues in Britain. Boxing, kickboxing, wrestling and sumo are all popular sports as well. Some Samoan sumos have reached the highest ranks possible. Even with a small population many Samoans and people of Samoan descent have reached professional status worldwide. American Football is played in Samoa, and about 30 ethnic Samoans currently play in the National Football League in the US.
Geography
Samoa is a Polynesian country located south of the equator in the Southern Hemisphere and east of the International Date Line. It is halfway between Hawaii and New Zealand in the Pacific Ocean. With a total land area of 2934 sq.kms (1133 sq. miles), there are two main islands.
Upolu and Savai’I account for 99% of the total land area. There are also eight small islets – Manono Island,Apolima and Nu’ulopa are in the Apolima Strait, whileNu’utele, Nu’ulua, Namua and Fanutapu are Aleipata Islands off the eastern coast of Upolu. Nu’usafe’e is off the southern coast of Upolu at the village of Vaovai.
The Samoan islands formed due to volcanic activity and the source of the Samoa hotspot is the result of a mantle plume. All the islands have volcanic activity, but it is only Savai’i, the western most island that has seen fairly recent eruptions. The highest point in Samoa is Mt Silisili at 1,858 meters or 6,096 feet. There is a lava field, Saleaula, on the central north coast of Savai’I, which as a result of the Mt Matavanu eruption left 50 sq.kms (20 sq.mi) of solidified lava.
Upolu, the main island, has about 75% of Samoa’s population and the capital city is Apia. Here the climate is equatorial or monsoonal and the average temperature is 26.5 degrees C or 79.7 degrees Fahrenheit with the rainy season November to April.
Savai’I Island is the largest island and is known for its beautiful scenery, archaeological sites and gentle and traditional lifestyle. Natural features include secluded beaches, lush rainforests, blowholes and lava fields. The island is easy to explore with a well-maintained road encircling the island. Cape Mulinuu on Savai’I is the last spot on earth to see the sunset every day.
Apolima Island is the fourth largest island and is located between the two main islands on the rim of an extinct volcano. With an impenetrable cliff face, the only access is via a narrow break in the reef and cliff wall. There is one village located here of approximately 150 people.
Fanuatapu Island is uninhabited and is a popular spot for day trippers.
Manono Island is the third most populated island, even though small in size but very traditional. You reach the island by boat from Manono-uta, and there are no roads on the island. You will find an ancient stone pyramid structure, called the Star Mound.
Namua Island located within the reef off Upolu Island has some accommodations on a gorgeous beach.The uninhabited island of Nu’ulopa Island lies off the western side of Manono Island and with great snorkeling is used for day trips and picnics. The small, uninhabited island of Nu’ulua is located off the eastern tip of Upolu. On a clear day, you can see the island of America Samoa.
The circular Nu’usafee Island, off the southern coast of Upolu is uninhabited. This is a popular wedding spot as well as for day use. This island is also known as Edward Island after Prince Edward who visited during the 1980s.
Last but not least is the spectacular offshore island of Nu’utele. This island with dramatic cliff faces can be seen from beaches on the south-eastern part of Upolu. This island is uninhabited and is frequent stop for nesting turtles.
Climate
The climate of Western Samoa is tropical. Even though is it located in the Southern Hemisphere, due to its proximity to the equator, there is no seasonal difference between summer and winter. There is, however, a rainy and dry season, with a slight difference in their temperatures. Being in the tropics also means that the days and nights are about the same length, and you will find that most of the locals are early risers to get the most out of the day.
Samoa has the occasional hurricane, or cyclone as it is known in the Southern Hemisphere. Even though a big cyclone just missed the coast of Samoa in 2010, the last major one was in 1993. Cyclone season is usually between January and March. However due to the effects of the southern oscillation of El Nino, it is debatable as to whether these months might change. The rainy season in Samoa is December to March while the day season is July and August. Due to the mountainous interior of the island, there is a large difference in the amount of rainfall on the coast to that of the jungle inland. The northern and western shores receive about 100 inches (or 2.5 meters) of rain yearly, whereas the inland areas will receive up to 300 inches (7.5 meters) annually. Expect it to rain 2 out of 3 days in the rainy season.
With the island being volcanic and an active volcano on Savai’I, the region can have the occasional small tremor. However the last major one was in the early 1900’s. Another consequence of Samoa being located in the Pacific Ocean as well as being surrounded by the Ring of Fire, is the occurrence of a tsunami or tidal wave. However, due to Samoa being a part of the Pacific wide monitoring and alert system, these are fairly rare.
Getting around Samoa
Air
The main airport of Samoa is Falelolo International Airport, located 35 kms (18 mis) from Apia. Polynesian Airlines flies to all destinations in Samoa, as well as Suva, Nadi, Savusavu, Kadavu, Taveuni and the outer islands of Fiji.
Samoa Air has daily scheduled domestic flights between Pago Pago, Ofu and Tau. There are also daily scheduled flights between American and Western Samoa, and charter flights to and from Vavau, Tonga.
Inter Island Air has 8-seater charter flights between Pago Pago, Ofu, Tau and Apia.
When leaving Samoa, there is a departure tax of STS$40 for all travelers over 21 years of age.
Drive
There is a choice of 24 different car rental companies and it is possible to hire everything from sedans and soft top 4WDs to 12-seater vans for bigger groups.
Driving Laws
To drive in Samoa you will need to validate your foreign driver’s license. You must bring it to the Ministry of Works Transport & Infrastructure in Apia, which is located across the street from the flea market, or to the Transport Control Board office in Vaitele near the Vailima factory. The cost for validation is ST$12, and some rental car companies will assist in getting your license endorsed.
On 07 September 2009, Samoa switched from driving on the right hand side of the road, to the left. Most vehicles now are left hand drive, and drivers should be very cautious if you are not familiar with driving on the left side of the road.
Public Transport
Another fun way to explore the islands is to take a map and board a local bus. The buses come in a variety of colors, and all the seating is wood. If, upon boarding, the bus is full, locals will sit on someone’s lap. If the bus is heading into either Apia or Salelologa, where the markets are located, the locals will carry their produce on board.
There are no designated bus stops around the island, so you just wave down the bus. To exit the bus, you simply pull the cord that rings the buzzer. The bus fare is paid when you exit the bus.
Ferries
The passenger and vehicle ferry between the main islands of Upolu and Savaii is run by the Samoa Shipping Corporation. The ferry departs Upolu from the Mulifanua Wharf which is near the international airport. Allow 45 minutes if you are coming from Apia. From Savaii, the ferry departs from Salelologa Wharf. The trip each direction is just over an hour, and it is advisable to arrive early at the wharf to purchase your tickets. Check with your hotel for the departure times of the sailings. The one-way fares are STS$9 for adults and STS$5 for children between 5 and 12 years. The charge for vehicles varies depending on the size and is between STS$50 –STS$100 each way.
It is also possible to take a ferry from Upolu to Manono Island. This departs from the Manono-uta Wharf, not too far from the Mulifanua Wharf and is STS3 for adults one way and STS$1 for children.
