About French Polynesia
General Introduction
French Polynesia is the collective name for the groups of islands that collectively make up the country more commonly referred to as “Tahiti”. French Polynesia comprises five main island groups – the Society Islands, the Tuamotus, the Marquesas, the Australs and the Gambier Archipelago. Tahiti is in the Society Islands.
When you mention the South Pacific, your mind immediately conjures up images of Tahiti, Bora Bora and Moorea and other 115 islands that are collectively known as French Polynesia. Early explorers brought back fantastic tales of spellbinding beauty and enchantment (enough to inspire a famous mutiny); novelists have romanticized them and artists have eternally been captivated by its human and scenic beauty.
So what inspires the mystique of Tahiti and her islands as one of the world’s most alluring destinations? Is it the jagged green mountains jutting up from crystal clear, multi-hued waters of the lagoons? The beauty and friendliness of the locals? Pristine white sand and black volcanic beaches? The balmy year-round temperatures? Or the thought of staying in a romantic bungalow suspended over a coral reef? You decide.
French Polynesia is more than just a honeymoon destination, however. Those seeking something stronger than a reading your favorite book in the sand will find salvation never more than a boat ride away. Adventures are plentiful in these archipelagos scattered over an area as big as Europe.
Cruise the alluring and mysterious Tuamotu Islands, where the breathtaking turquoise sea is home not only to flawless black pearls, but also hundreds of sharks. Travel to the ends of the earth, the Austral Islands, a place so remote centuries slide by without anyone batting an eye. Check out the Gambier Archipelago: an armchair destination for most, it’s also a must for wannabe National Geographic explorers. Those searching for a little less swashbuckling and a lot more room service will delight in Bora Bora’s luxurious pampering and lush good looks or in Maupiti’s picture-perfect views and old-fashioned French hospitality.
History
The island groups that make up French Polynesia were not officially united until the establishment of the French protectorate in 1889. The first of these islands to be settled by indigenous Polynesians were the Marquesas Islands in AD 300 and the Society Islands in AD 800. The Polynesians were organized in loose chieftainships.
European communication began in 1521 when the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan sighted Pukapuka in the Tuamotu Archipelago. Dutchman Jakob Roggeveen came across Bora Bora in the Society Islands in 1722, and the British explorer Samuel Wallis visited Tahiti in 1767.
The French explorer Louis Antoine de Bougainville visited Tahiti in 1768, while the British explorer James Cook visited in 1769. Christian missions began with Spanish priests who stayed in Tahiti for a year from 1774; Protestants from the London Missionary Society settled permanently in Polynesia in 1797.
King Pomare II of Tahiti was forced to flee to Moorea in 1803; he and his subjects were converted to Protestantism in 1812. French Catholic missionaries arrived on Tahiti in 1834; their expulsion in 1836 caused France to send a gunboat in 1838. In 1842, Tahiti and Tahuata were declared a French protectorate, to allow Catholic missionaries to work undisturbed. The capital of Papeete was founded in 1843. In 1880, France annexed Tahiti, changing the status from that of a protectorate to that of a colony.
In the 1880s, France claimed the Tuamotu Archipelago, which formerly belonged to the Pomare dynasty, without formally annexing it. Having declared a protectorate over Tahuatu in 1842, the French regarded the entire Marquesas Islands as French.
In 1885, France appointed a governor and established a general council, thus giving it the proper administration for a colony. The islands of Rimatara and Rurutu unsuccessfully lobbied for British protection in 1888, so in 1889 they were annexed by France. Postage stamps were first issued in 1892.
The first official name for the colony was Établissements de l’Océanie (Settlements in Oceania); in 1903 the general council was changed to an advisory council and the colony’s name was changed to Établissements Français de l’Océanie (French Settlements in Oceania).
In 1940, the administration of French Polynesia recognized the Free French Forces and many Polynesians served in World War II. Unknown at the time to French and Polynesians, the Konoe Cabinet in Imperial Japan on 16 September 1940 included French Polynesia among the many territories which were to become Japanese possessions in the post-war world – though in the course of the war in the Pacific the Japanese were not able to launch an actual invasion of the French islands.
In 1946, Polynesians were granted French citizenship and the islands’ status was changed to an overseas territory; the islands’ name was changed in 1957 to Polynésie Française (French Polynesia). In 1962, France’s early nuclear testing ground of Algeria became independent and the Mururoa Atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago was selected as the new testing site; tests were conducted underground after 1974. On January 29, 1996, France announced it would accede to the Comprehensive Test Ban Treaty, and no longer tests nuclear weapons.
In 1977, French Polynesia was granted partial internal autonomy; in 1984, the autonomy was extended. French Polynesia became a full overseas collectivity of France in 2004.
Perhaps no one more than French painter Paul Gauguin, who lived on Tahiti in the 1890s and painted many Tahitian subjects, influenced our romantic image of these islands. Papeari, on Tahiti, has a small Gauguin museum. He later worked and is buried on, Hiva Oa, in the Marquesas.
Population
Total population on January 1, 2009 was 264,000 inhabitants, up from 259,596 at the August 2007 census. At the 2007 census, 68.6% of the population of French Polynesia lived on the island of Tahiti alone. The urban area of Papeete, the capital city, has 131,695 inhabitants (2007 census).
In contrast, the population of Moorea is about 16,000, Bora Bora about 5,000 and Huahine about 6,000. The Marquesas Islands group has a collective populace of approximately 8,600; the Tuamotus and Gambier Islands have a combined populace of 16,000 inhabitants; and the remoter Australs has about 6,300 inhabitants.
At the 2007 census, 87.3% of people living in French Polynesia were born in French Polynesia, 9.3% were born in metropolitan France, 1.4% were born in overseas France outside of French Polynesia, and 2.0% were born in foreign countries. The Europeans, the Demis (mixed European and Polynesian) and the East Asians are essentially concentrated on the island of Tahiti, particularly in the urban area of Papeete, where their share of the population is thus much greater than in French Polynesia overall. Race mixing has been going on for more than a century already in French Polynesia, resulting in a rather mixed society.
Culture
Dance
One of the most widely recognised images of the islands is the world famous Tahitian dance.
The ʻōteʻa, sometimes written as otea, is a traditional dance from Tahiti, where the dancers, standing in several rows, execute different figures. This dance, easily recognized by its “fast hip-shaking,” and “grass skirts” is often confused with the Hawaiian hula, a generally slower more graceful dance which focuses more on the hands and story telling than the hips.
The ʻōteʻa is one of the few dances which already existed in pre-European times as a male dance. On the other hand, the hura (Tahitian vernacular for hula), a dance for women, has disappeared, and the couple’s dance ʻupaʻupa is likewise gone but may have re-emerged as the tāmūrē. Nowadays, however, the ʻōteʻa can be danced by men (ʻōteʻa tāne), by women (ʻōteʻa vahine), or by both genders (ʻōteʻa ʻāmui). The dance is with music only, drums, but no singing.
The drum can be one of the different types of the tōʻere, a laying log of wood with a longitudinal slit, which is struck by one or two sticks. Or it can be the pahu, the ancient Tahitian standing drum covered with a shark skin and struck by the hands or with sticks. The rhythm from the tōʻere is fast, from the pahu it is slower. A smaller drum, the faʻatētē, can also be used.
The dancers make gestures, re-enacting daily occupations of life. For the men the themes can be chosen from warfare or sailing, and then they may use spears or paddles. For women the themes are closer to home or from nature, combing their hair, or the flight of a butterfly for example. But also more elaborate themes can be chosen, for example one where the dancers end up in a map of Tahiti, highlighting important places. In a proper ʻōteʻa the story of the theme should pervade the whole dance.
The Tahitians of the modern era maintain their heritage and traditions of their Maohi ancestors. Oral history recounts the adventures of gods and warriors in colorful legends where javelin throwing was the sport of the gods, surf riding was favored by the kings, and Aito strongmen competed in outrigger canoe races and stone lifting as a show of pure strength.
For those who want to bring a little culture to their evenings, a worthwhile trip to see a Polynesian dance show is a good idea. Many resorts on the island have a dance show once a week that you can check out. The Grande Danse de Tahiti troupe is one of the best dance companies on the island, and if you have the time, go see their show at the Inter-Continental Tahiti Beachcomber Resort.
Music of French Polynesia
French Polynesia came to the forefront of the world music scene in 1992, with the release of The Tahitian Choir’s recordings of unaccompanied vocal Christian music called himene tārava, recorded by French musicologist Pascal Nabet-Meyer. This form of singing is common in French Polynesia and the Cook Islands, and is distinguished by a unique drop in pitch at the end of the phrases, which is a characteristic formed by several different voices; it is also accompanied by steady grunting of staccato syllables.
Sculpture
Sculpture is one of the major arts of French Polynesia. Initially, pieces of art were produced on all 5 archipelagos. Nowadays, most sculptures you will find along your trip are produced in the Marquesas Islands.
Polynesian sculpture is characterized by some kind of mystical power that seems to emanate from the subjects chosen by the artist, often inspired by older traditional designs and patterns.
The Tiki is a human representation of a divinity. It will be frequently encountered in markets. But you will also find some weapons, such as spears and “head blowers”, musical instruments (toere, ukulele) and cooking utensils (umete) bearing the symbol.
The material used for sculpture is mostly wood and sometimes stone, mother-of-pearl or bone.
Marae
The open-air sanctuaries called marae were once the center of power in ancient Polynesia. These large, stone structures, akin to temples, hosted the important events of the times including the worship of the gods, peace treaties, celebrations of war, and the launch of voyages to colonize distant lands.
Heiva i Tahiti
In celebration of ancient traditions and competitions, the annual Heiva festival has been the most important event in Tahiti for the past 122 years. For visitors, there is no better place in the world to be during July than surrounded by this pure display of Polynesian festivity. Tahitians gather in Papeete from many islands to display their crafts, compete in ancient sporting events, and recreate traditional and elaborate dance performances.
Tattoo
The word tattoo originated in Tahiti. The legend of Tohu, the god of tattoo, describes painting all the oceans’ fish in beautiful colors and patterns. In Polynesian culture, tattoos have long been considered signs of beauty, and in earlier times were ceremoniously applied when reaching adolescence.
Handcrafts
The skills of the ancestors’ artistry are kept sacred and passed on by both the “mamas,” the guardians of tradition and the matriarchs of Tahitian society as well as by skilled craftsmen. Items include weaving, quilting, wooden sculptures and bowls, drums, tapa (tree bark), carvings, and hand-dyed pareu (flowing material)
Canoes
Centuries before the Europeans concluded that the earth was round, the great voyagers of Polynesia had already mastered the Pacific Ocean. Aboard massive, double-hulled outrigger canoes called tipairua, they navigated by stars and winds. Today, the canoe still plays a role in everyday Tahitian life and is honored in colorful races and festivals throughout the islands.
Flowers
Tropical flowers seem to be everywhere on the islands, particularly in the hair of Tahitians. Hibiscus blossoms are worn behind the ear or braided with palm fronds into floral crowns. The Tiare Tahiti flower is used in leis for greeting arriving visitors and returning family. Tradition holds that, if taken, women and men wear a flower behind their left ear.
Geography
The islands of French Polynesia have a total area of 4,167 sq.kms (1,622 sq.mil) scattered over 2,500,000 sq.kms (965,255 sq.mi) of ocean. There are approximately 130 individual islands in French Polynesia.
The six main island groups are: The Society Islands (including Tahiti); Tuamotu archipelago; Austral Islands; Marquesas Islands, Gambier Islands (usually listed as part of the Tuamotus) and Bass Island (often considered a part of the Australs).
The island groups are:
- Society Islands (including: Windward Islands (Îles du Vent) – Mehetia, Tahiti, Tetiaroa, Moorea, Maiao. Leeward Islands (Îles Sous-le-Vent) – Huahine, Raiatea, Tahaa, Bora Bora, Tupai, Maupiti, Mopelia, Motu One (Bellinghausen) and Manuae.
- Austral Islands (including: Tubuai Islands – Îles Maria, Rimatara, Rurutu, Tubuai and Raivavae)
- Marquesas Islands(including: Northern Marquesas – Ua Huka, Eiao, Hatutu, Motu Iti, Motu Oa, Motu One, Nuku Hiva, Ua Huka and Ua Pou. Southern Marquesas – Hiva `Oa, Fatu Hiva, Fatu Huku, Hiva Oa, Moho Tani, Motu Nao, Tahuata and Terihi)
- Bass Islands (including: Rapa and Marotiri)
- Tuamotu Archipelago (including: Rangiroa, Tikehau, Manihi, Fangataufa and Moruroa. Acteon Group, Duke of Gloucester Islands, King George Islands, Palliser Islands and Palliser Islands)
- Gambier Islands (including: Mangareva, Akamaru, Angakauitai, Aukena, Kamaka, Kouaku, Makapu, Makaroa, Manui, Mekiro and Taravai)
Climate
Known for its gorgeous weather, French Polynesia is considered to be among the hottest vacation destinations on the planet. Aside from the stunning natural beauty found here, one of the main reasons why this island paradise is a tourist favorite is because it is bathed in sunshine for more than 2,500 hours a year. Immortalized in the works of Gauguin and author Robert Louis Stevenson, French Polynesia is thought by many to be a piece of heaven on earth.
Since French Polynesia is located in the tropical zone of the southern hemisphere, the weather can only be described as “tropical”. Also, being south of the equator, their seasons are opposite of those in North America.
November to April is the wet season, the wettest month of which is January, with over 13 inches (335 mm) of rain. August is the driest with 1.9 inches (48 mm). The average temperature ranges between 70 °F (21 °C) and 88 °F (31 °C) with little seasonal variation.
January to April is cyclone season. An ever-present danger, cyclones are common in the region. However, thankfully not much damage has occurred from them.
The remainder of the year tends to be cooler and much drier with plenty of sunshine. South-easterly trade winds blow from May to August, keeping the weather a balmy 26C. Rain is rare around this time, with little difference between day and night temperatures. The month of July is said to have the most ideal weather conditions, but do keep in mind that it is peak tourist season time, so be prepared for plenty of crowds. Also a lot of Tahitian holidays and festivals occur around this time, so you will find plenty of people out and about. The prefect time for scuba diving or kicking back and sunbathing, the summer months are a great time to visit.
The weather described above basically pertains to the Society Islands. The Marquesas Islands are much closer to the Equator, so their weather tends to be warmer with more rainfall. At the other extreme, the Gambier Islands are about as far south of the Equator as the northern part of Mexico is north of the Equator. French Polynesia enjoys a tropical climate, which creates hot and humid weather all year round, with an average of about eight hours of sunshine per day over a year.
Getting around Tahiti
Air
There are a number of small planes and charter companies regularly flying from Tahiti to the rest of the Society Islands and beyond. Air Tahiti is the largest of them with the most regularly scheduled flights.
Having Air Tahiti Nui or another carrier book your domestic flights along with your international ticket will greatly simplify matters in case of a local cancellation, and you will avoid an extra fee if you have to change your flights once here.
- Air Moorea
A subsidiary of Air Tahiti , Air Moorea provides shuttle service between Tahiti-Faaa International Airport and Temae Airport on Moorea. Its small planes) leave Fa’aa on the hour and half-hour daily from 6 to 9am, then on the hour from 10am to 3pm, and on the hour and half-hour again from 4 to 6pm. Each plane turns around on Moorea and flies back to Tahiti. - Air Tahiti
The primary domestic carrier is Air Tahiti, which provides daily flights between Papeete and all the main islands, most in modern planes seating 44 or 72 passengers. It’s wise to reserve your seats as early as possible, especially during school holidays.
Charters flights such as Air Archipel are available on request. Helicopters are one other option. The only helicopter service in French Polynesia providing inter-island travel and flight seeing is Polynesia Helicopters (formerly known as Heli-Inter).
Drive
Getting around Tahiti is not that difficult as this island has a well-developed road and highway infrastructure. Tahiti Nui in particular has a proper road network that connects most places on this part of the island. On Tahiti Iti, unfortunately, this is not the case, the roads are mostly dirt tracks and getting around can be quite difficult unless you have four-wheel drive and a guide with you.
If you are adventurous, a great way to see Tahiti is by renting a car or scooter and driving around yourself. Car/scooter rentals are a great option especially if you are travelling with family or company. If you’re not sure about what to do, speak to your hotel concierge and they are sure to help you out with brochures and information. Car rentals here are pretty economical, with rental agencies like Avis and EuropCar on the island. Don’t forget to bring your driver’s license.
Driving here is quite easy as the roads are well made especially in the capital Papeete.
Driving laws
A valid driver’s license from your home country will be honored in French Polynesia. Driving is on the right-hand side of the road, as in North America and continental Europe. All persons in a vehicle must wear seat belts. If you drive or ride on a scooter or motorbike, helmets (casques, pronounced “casks”) are mandatory.
Speed limits are 40kmph (24 mph) in the towns and villages, and 80kmph (48 mph) on the open road. The limit is 60kmph (36 mph) for 8km (5 miles) on either side of Papeete.
Drivers on the main rural roads have the right of way. In Papeete, priority is given to vehicles entering from the right side, unless an intersection is marked with a traffic light or a stop or yield sign.
Drivers are required to stop for pedestrians at marked crosswalks, but on busy streets, don’t assume that drivers will politely stop for you when you try to cross.
Taxis
Papeete has a large number of taxis, although they are somewhat harder to find during the morning and evening rush hours, especially if it’s raining. You can flag one down on the street or find them gathered at one of several stations. The largest gathering points are on boulevard Pomare near the market and at the Centre Vaima. Most taxi drivers understand some English.
Taxi fares are set by the government and are posted on a board at the Centre Vaima taxi stand on Blvd. Pomare. Few cabs have meters, so be sure that you and the driver have agreed on a fare before you get in. Note that all fares are increased by at least 20% from 8pm to 6am.
Public Transport
To get around Tahiti Nui, your best bet is to use the local bus service here known as Le Truck. Le Trucks are actually trucks as their name implies that have painted white and converted into a passenger bus. A cheap and inexpensive way to travel around, these buses are also used by the locals, so they help you get a feel for what Tahiti is all about. Pretty reliable and definitely safe, these buses run from morning to around 10pm at night, after which you will have to call a cab.
Le Trucks run throughout the week, but be mindful as the service on Sundays tends to be rather sparse. Each bus has a route number and a final destination point clearly marked out, so make sure that you read it before hopping onto a bus. There are three basic bus routes the Le Trucks have that can be simplified into covering the greater Papeete area, the east coast of Tahiti including getting to Tahiti Iti and the west coast of the island, where a majority of the resorts and hotels can be found.
Ferries/Boats
Ferries (sometimes combined cargo and passenger boats like the Aranui) travel between most islands. Besides the major cruise lines, there are a handful of large sea craft that make regular (or semi regular) trips to the Societal Islands from various points in French Polynesia.
The Aremiti Ferries are a pleasant, dependable, and cheap way of getting to Moorea. Schooners and cargo boats serve all the inhabited islands from Papeete. Frequency varies according to the destinations: from three times a week to the Society Islands to once monthly to the Island of Mangareva.
Two cruise ships/luxury liners currently ply the islands: the Paul Gauguin, which does a regular 7-day trip around the Societies, with occasional trips out to the Tuamotus, Marquesas and Cook Islands; and the Tahitian Princess which does similar itineraries. A great way to see the islands, unless you’re on a tight budget. Bora Bora Cruises is a more intimate vessel based in the Leeward Islands. Or for more adventure, embark on the Aranui III.
Yacht charter Polynesia Windward Islands, one of the worlds largest yacht charter companies, can take care of all charter requirements, from bareboat to luxury yacht in French Polynesia. They operate from different offices worldwide (UK, USA, Honk Kong, Dubai, Germany, Italy, France, Spain and Switzerland).
Walks
This is the best way to meet locals and really see and appreciate the relaxed lifestyle of the islanders. Walking is also one of best ways to appreciate the beauty of Tahiti and her islands. Not only will you be able to stare in awe at your surroundings, but nobody will be hurrying or distracting you either. This is also the time to pull out your camera and get the best shots of your trip.
Dining and Nightlife
Dining
When it comes to food, Tahiti has the widest selection of cuisines in French Polynesia. Here you can get anything from Chinese food to continental European food and fine French cuisine. However, if you are in the mood for some more local flavors, the food stalls and shops all over Papeete offer a great dining experience, plus they let you mingle with the locals and get a better feel for what this tiny island has to offer. Many hotels and resorts on the island also have theme nights in their restaurants, which include a Polynesian dance show along with a buffet as well as a live band. Some good restaurants to eat out at in Tahiti are; the Corbeille d’eau, the Le Belvedere, the Le Mandarin, the Le Morrison’s Café, the Les Roulottes and the Le Tikisoft Café.
Nightlife
After the sun goes down, there is still much to do and see in Tahiti. With lots to offer and depending on the kind of entertainment you enjoy, Tahiti has a vibrant and varied nightlife. Here you can find everything from fine dining establishments to colorful bars and noisy street clubs.
For a little more fun in Tahiti, check out the nightclubs that come alive after the sun goes down. The music at these clubs vary from jazz and Afro-Caribbean, to rock and roll, with many clubs staying open till the wee hours of the morning. Le Grenier de Montmartre is a popular nightclub along with the Le 106 and the Le Mana Rock Café. For a night out on the town check out Quinn’s on the waterfront in Papeete, which serves a good selection of beer including Hinano, a locally produced Tahitian beer.
Only the island of Tahiti has such an eclectic nightlife, while on many other islands it is more tranquil and relaxing.
