Austral

Hundreds of miles to the south of Tahiti lie the Austral islands, a chain of five high islands located on the Tropic of Capricorn.

The islands are known for the traditional art of weaving coconut and pandanus leaves into elaborate hats, purses, mats, and bags. The ocean around the islands is also a home for whales from July to November.

The islands with small hotels and family pensions are:

Rurutu
The island is famous for the passage of humpback whales (from July to October) and has superb white sand beaches. The entire island covers about 38.5 sq.kms. and measures 10 kms .(6 miles) long and 5.5 kms. (3 miles) wide between the point of Arei and Vitara. The highest point on the island, The Manureva, reaches 335 ms./1,106 ft.

But what mostly strikes the visitor, are the high cliffs surrounded by numerous caves. To date about 37 of these caves have been discovered.

The ancient name of Rurutu was Eteroa. According to oral traditions, the first to occupy the island arrived in two pirogues from Tahiti: Punaauia and later the Paea. Those first migrations were dated from the 8th century. Subsequently another pirogue might have come from South America brought along by those called Ati A’ura. It should be noted that a modern-day recreation of the voyage (by Bishop aboard his raft Tahiti Nui II) between the coasts of South America and The Australs, to confirm the Inca connection, was not successful. The first European sighting was By Capt. Cook on 13 August 1769. But judging the difficult landing conditions, he decided not to disembark.

The interior of the island is surprising, because of the richness of the vegetation and the geological characteristics. Visitors can go for a walk on the cliffs or explore the numerous caves. You can also make a trip around the country by horse. Many beautiful beaches offer pleasant moments for relaxation or exploration of the lagoon.

Humpback whales are an exceptional attraction from July to October, but diving in these waters can be done all year round.

Tubuai
Known as the The island of Plenty, it is the largest of the Austral Islands. Tubuai is located 643 kms. south of Tahiti. Two sets of hills on the eastern and western flanks of the island are joined by lowland valleys. When seen from the sea, they give the appearance of being two islands. The island is surrounded by a barrier reef enclosing a wide lagoon with fringing white sand beaches. This is a beautiful spot for snorkeling and picnics can be arranged on the reef motu. Tubuai is slowly being discovered as a haven for surfing.

Rimatara

This is the smallest of the Australs in size (9 sq. kms.), height (84 meters) and populace (less than 1,000 inhabitants).Construction of the new airport will help develop tourism. Whereas there is no wharf, visitors arrive by whaleboat at one of two villages – Amaru or Mutua Ura. An interesting traditional ceremony takes place when all new visitors to the island pass through a cloud of purifying smoke from beachside fires.

Raivavae

It’s name means “at the dawning of the world”. Situated just below the Tropic of Capricorn, Raivavae is the third most southerly island in the South Pacific. It is one of the foremost islands for archeology and natural beauty in French Polynesia. Air Tahiti services the islands with flights through Tubuai.

The barrier reef encloses a number of motus toward the southern end of the lagoon. About 1,100 people live in four coastal villages with Rairua being administrative center.

The island’s ancient temples were the subject of three expeditions, one led by Thor Heyerdahl in 1956. Many of the remnants have since been destroyed or moved to the Gauguin Museum on Tahiti. There are some remaining stones and one large tiki near Rairua.

Rapa
The southernmost island in the South Pacific. It is 600 kms. from Raivavae and over 1,200 kms. south of Tahiti. It is commonly called Rapa- ti or “little Rapa” in deference to the big Rapa (Rapa Nui) – Easter Island.

Soaring mountains reaching 650 meters and surround the crater harbor of Rapa – Haurei Bay. Due to the extreme exposure conditions the eastern slopes of the mountains are bare while the western sides have lush fern forests. Coffee and taro are the main crops.

The only island in French Polynesia that is below the tropical zone, remote Rapa stands proudly alone at 1,074 km. (666 miles) southeast of Tahiti and 600 km. (373 miles) distant from Raivavae, its closest neighbor. The crescent shaped island has a circumference of 18 miles (30 km.), and there are 12 deeply indented bays along its fjord-like coastline. There is no fringing reef in these cold waters and several sugar-loaf shaped islets lie just offshore. Rapa was first sighted by English Captain George Vancouver in 1791.

Rapa-Iti, as the island is also called, has a strong cultural connection to Rapa-Nui, the Polynesian name for Easter Island. Rapa’s 500 inhabitants descendants of fierce Polynesian warriors, kings, hardy sailors and pearl-shell divers.

The entire community owns the land and the simple houses are grouped together in Haurei Village and in the smaller village of Area, which is reached by boat across Haurei Bay. There is a town hall, post office, infirmary, weather station and school. A cooperative store provides the villagers with basic supplies and many of the homes have television and telephone service.

Archaeological ruins include the remains of seven famous ‘pa’ fortresses built on terraces among volcanic pinnacles. These structures were found nowhere else in Polynesia except New Zealand where the Maori people settled. Mt. Perahau, the highest of six peaks, hides among the clouds at 650 meters (2,145 feet) above the island. Herds of cattle, sheep and wild goats roam the velvety green mountain ridges, and farms of coffee, taro, cabbage, apples, oranges, and peaches supplement a diet of fresh salmon, cold water lobster, mussels, oysters, crabs, bêche de mer, shrimp and sea urchin, with occasional portions of beef and tender goat meat from the cooperative store. Because it is below the tropical zone, the coconut trees on Rapa do not produce many nuts.

The temperature in this southerly clime can drop to 5 degrees Celsius (41 degrees Fahrenheit) during the Austral winter of July and August, when violent winds blow across the turbulent open seas, bringing cold temperatures up from the South Pole.

There is no airport on Rapa and supplies are brought in by cargo ship from Tahiti. There are no tourist facilities other than a bed or room in a private home. Even though this lonely island almost at the bottom of the world is difficult to reach, there are still venturesome souls who heed the call to those far away places.