Moorea
“Nothing on Tahiti is so majestic as what it faces across the bay”. So wrote author James Michener in Return to Paradise when describing Moorea. Only 12 miles (20 kms) from Tahiti, Moorea can be reached by a 10-minute flight or picturesque 30-minute catamaran ride across the aptly named Sea of the Moon.
Moorea is only about one-third the size of its big sister Tahiti and is ringed by a 37-mile (60 kms) coastal road that allows easy access around the island. Volcanic eruptions, millions of years ago reduced its lofty peaks to jagged outcroppings that give Moorea its distinctive profile. Mt. Mouaroa, the “shark’s tooth” is the most famous and is emblazoned on the 100 XFP note.
There is no central town on Moorea, so everything basically tracks from the airport at Temae located in the northwest part of the island. Proceeding west, we enter the island’s commercial center at Maharepa. The fine stretch of beach just before town was the site of the island’s first tourism development – the Bali Hai Hotel (1961). Its founders, a trio of California ex-pats also built over-water bungalows (first started on Raiatea) and developed the style so distinctive to the islands. Today, the Moorea Pearl Resort and Spa occupies the former hotel site.
The relatively new Moorea Green Pearl Golf Club is located near Temae. The Jack Nicklaus designed course is French Polynesia‘s second 18-hole course, joining the Olivier Bréaud International Golf Course on Tahiti. It’s a spectacular 18-hole resort course, which is Polynesia’s first in 35 years. The 6,596 yard, par 70 course has a tunnel under the road which allows access from the mountain to the lagoon side of the resort.
Continuing the drive west, bring us to Cook’s Bay (PK10) which has black pearl shops, restaurants and hotels. At the apex of the bay is the town of Paopao, one of the largest on the island. For a delightful meal in a scenic setting try the Restaurant Honu Iti. On the bay’s northwest coast (PK11) is the road to the Moorea Fruit Juice Factory and Distillery. It’s worth a stop to sample the famous Rotui Juices and the ‘Tahiti Drink’ fruit liquors.
Situated on the short drive to Opunohu Bay, is the Sheraton Moorea Lagoon Resort and Spa. In contrast to Cook’s Bay, Opunohu is virtually devoid of commercial development. Near PK 17 lies an area known as Robinson’s Cove, an oft-photographed yacht anchorage. Just beyond the bridge lies the turn-off for the road up through Opunohu Valley to the scenic Belvedere Lookout. The road will take you past the restored Titiroa marae and ancient archery platforms used by early rulers of the island. Upon reaching the pinnacle, you will be rewarded with one of the most visually stunning views in the world, that of Mt. Rotui knifing up between Opunohu and Cook’s Bays. Returning to coastal road, one passes through the town of Papetoai (PK 22) and onto the climatically drier northwest coast. Known as the “hotel district” (PK 25 – 30), you will find the Intercontinental Resort and Spa Moorea; Moorea Beachcomber Parkroyal; Hotel Les Tipaniers and Hotel Hibiscus. From the lagoon here you can access dolphin encounters and at the InterContinental Resort, is the Moorea Dolphin Center.The Tiki Theatre Village (PK 31) is a recreation of Tahitian life as it was in pre-European days. In traditional fares (houses), see demonstrations of traditional tattooing, tapa cloth making and painting, carving, weaving, cooking, instrument making, costuming and the art of growing black pearls. The Village is open Tuesday through Saturday, 11am to 3pm. And on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday evening the dancers and musicians present a Polynesian extravaganza.
As you drive along the western side of the island, you reach the half-way point at PK 35. From here, the numbers start descending back to the airport. At PK 32 lies the town of Haapiti that is worth a stop to photograph an alternate view of Mt. Mouaroa (the Shark’s Tooth). Tahiti comes into view after rounding the southernmost point of the island (PK 16). The administrative center of the island is in the town of Afareaitu (at PK10) on the eastern shore. Nearby Vaiare Bay is the landing spot for most of the inter-island ferries from Tahiti.
Just south of the airport is the Sofitel Ia Ora Resort. The road detours inland from behind the resort to the Toatea Overlook which provides a grand view of the Sea of the Moon and Tahiti.
