Tahiti

Tahiti is a modern blend of French culture with the laid-back charm and pace of a Polynesian island. Despite the chic shops and designer boutiques in downtown Papeete, the islanders still hold fast to a more traditional Polynesian lifestyle which perpetuates the charm of the islands.

Tahiti is part of French Polynesia, a French overseas possession, claimed in 1843. The island was originally settled by the Polynesians in 850. Although it is the largest island in the country, Tahiti was originally not as important as the spiritual and cultural center of Raiatea in eastern Polynesia. However, after its discovery and settlement by European sailors in the latter half of the18th century, Tahiti quickly became the economic, cultural and political hub amongst the islands. And because of its favorable harbor, Papeete grew to the principal city and eventual capital of French Polynesia.

Since the 1840s, the waterfront has been a key area of development of Papeete. Today the Boulevard Pomare, which rings the harbor, encompasses boutiques, the Centre Vaima, restaurants and a lush park (Place Toata – where the dance competitions are held in July). A great way to mingle with the locals is to join the nightly throngs at the cruise ship center at Vai’ete Square on Boulevard Pomare and rue Gaugain. And while there, you can sample food from les roulettes – the portable meal wagons, one of the least expensive ways to dine in Tahiti.

Other highlights within the city include le Hotel du Ville (town hall); the bustling Marche Municipal (central market – best times are early mornings 5 to 7am); Place Tarahoi (French Polynesia’s Government Center) and le Musee de la Perle Robert Wan (Pearl Museum) – named for the pioneer of the industry, it is the only museum in the world devoted entirely to the history and culture of pearls; Centre Vaima – Papeete’s first shopping mall and still the standard for upscale boutiques that attract the city’s French and European residents as well as visiting tourists with cash to spend.

To sample some of Papeete’s multi-cultural cuisine you might want to try some of these fine restaurants: L’O a la Bouche (French); Auberge du Pacifique (French/Tahitian); Le Lotus (Continental) or Le Rubis (Regional French). Transport can be arranged from your hotel.

For late night entertainment, Papeete offers everything from upscale, private discos (suitable for tourists) to rather ‘earthy’ bars and more.

Even by Tahitian standards, the traffic is quite congested around town and on the four-lane expressway extending to the trendy western suburbs. One thing adding to the problem is that parking is free everywhere in downtown Papeete. For trips outbound from Papeete, le truck (converted flatbed trucks) is inexpensive and a great way to meet the locals. There are no set stops, so just wave and they pick you up. But their numbers are dwindling, being replaced by modern buses.

Tahiti basically covers 15% of the total land mass of the country but has 65% of its overall population – about 125,000 people. The island is made up of two extinct volcanic craters joined by an isthmus. Tahiti Nui, is the larger of the two, to the northwest and Tahiti Iti (little Tahiti) in the southeast. The dramatic peaks rimming the crater of Tahiti Nui are the tallest in the country reaching over 7,300 ft. (2,200 meters).

There is a sealed (paved) road ringing the periphery of Tahiti Nui (72 miles/120 kms.) and two roads also extends down the northern and southern coasts of Tahiti Iti. Circle Island tours follow this road. Or it is almost impossible to get lost if you choose to drive on your own. It is best to take a guided, 4-wheel drive tour if you want a more adventurous look at the island’s interior. Other methods of exploring the island include motorboat and yacht charters, outrigger canoe tours of Matavai Bay and helicopter tours. All of which can be arranged in advance or at the activity desk of your resort or cruise ship.

(PK – post kilometer/mile markers)

Driving northeast from Papeete, we come to a vista point (PK 2.5) up the Fautaua River Valley which affords a view to the Diademe, the signature peak on the island. At PK 4.7 is the turnoff for the road to ancestral home of the Pomare dynasty and the Tomb of King Pomare V. Just beyond the tomb is the James N. Hall Residence. Hall, along with co-writer Charles Nordhoff, wrote the Bounty trilogy. At PK 7 is the Radisson Plaza Resort.

At PK 8, the road rises to One Tree Hill, so named by Capt. Cook in 1769, which offers a commanding view over Papeete and over to Moorea. Our drive takes us next to the northern most spot on the island, Point Venus at PK 10. This was the historic landing spot for many of the early foreign explorers such as Wallis, Cook and Bligh. It was from here that Cook attempted to track the transit of Venus, hence the name. Continuing along the northeast coast, one passes through the Papenoo, one of the island’s largest villages.

Stop for more photos at PK 20, where the pounding surf burst through the rocks to form the Arahoho Blowholes. A popular swimming spot, can be found a short distance away at the base of the Cascade Vaimahutu (waterfalls). We now continue on along some of the most picturesque roads on the island, to Taravao (PK 52.5), and the juncture point for the roads leading to Tahiti Iti.

Continuing our loop around Tahiti Nui, we next come to the Musee Gaugain, Jardin Botanique (Paul Gaugain Museum and Botanical Gardens) at PK52. Gaugain’s vivid impressionistic paintings glorifying Tahitian life probably did more to seed the exotic image in the western mind then all the explorers before him. The museum holds a few samples of his work, but through memorabilia and photos reconstructs the dozen years he spent on the island.

The island’s only golf course, Atimaono, is by PK 40 and popular surfing beach, Taharuu is at PK 36. A paved road at PK 23, leads one to the important historical site of Arahurahu Marae, an ancient worship site restored to its original appearance.

Just past Le Meridien Hotel at PK 15, take the seaside road to Musee de Tahiti et ses isles (Museum of Tahiti and her islands). The Lagoonarium at PK10, is an ingenious series of piers leading out to underwater rooms, where you can view the teeming underwater life of the lagoon. A cluster of hotels follows for the next 4 kilometers: 
PK 7 – Sofitel Tahiti Maeva Beach Hotel
PK 6 – Tahiti Beachcomber Park Royal Hotel
PK 5 – Faa’a International Airport
PK 3 – Sheraton Hotel Tahiti