The Marquesas
Off the beaten track, some 750 miles (1200 kms.) northeast of Tahiti lie the Marqueses Islands. The Marquesas raise their breathtaking peaks from a reef-less ocean thus the waves pound the shores directly and there are few natural beaches. There are 12 islands in the group, two of which, Nuku Hiva and Hiva Oa, have international standard resorts. Because of a unique equatorial current, the coral reefs have not enclosed the island. If you have the time, besides flying, you can take a romantic trip aboard the passenger freighter Aranui 3 to the islands.
Getting to and around the Marquesas is a unique experience. Operating seven days a week, Air Tahiti provides to Nuku Hiva with a flight from Papeete. Weekly service is also offered to Nuku Hiva from Bora Bora and Rangiroa. Continuing flights and helicopter charters connect Nuku Hiva to Hiva Oa with several weekly 35-minute flights.
About a 3-hour flight from the Society Islands and the Tuamotu Atolls, the Marquesas, or Henua Enata meaning “Land of Men”, are seemingly lost at the end of the earth. Even now, some of the islands are virtually untouched since the era of European exploration. Their isolation has created an immense pride among the people and a fascinating culture. The language is unique to Tahiti, as the lilting Marquesan dialect is traced directly to the ancient Polynesian tongue of Maohi. In addition to the language, the songs and rhythmic haka dances, traditional arts of tatoo, sculpture, tapa making, and distinctive cuisine are matters of pride for the Marquesan people. Most of the island’s inhabitants reside in inland valleys on the slopes of the central mountain.
Depending on road conditions and the location of your hotel, airport transfers can either be by boat, horse, 4×4 truck or by helicopter from Héli inter Marquises.
Travel around the islands requires planning as well. Although 4×4 rental vehicles are available, it is advisable to hire a guide to negotiate the steep, rugged, and unfamiliar roads occasionally used by herds of wild horses. Around the islands, motorboat rentals offer an enjoyable way to explore the dramatic bays and shoreline. With their winding trails, where each turn unveils another majestic view, the Marquesas offer the spectacle of nature at the dawn of time.
Scuba diving is recommended for experienced divers due to the lack of lagoons. The undersea world is highlighted by the splendor of colorful grottoes found among the islands’ plunging cliffs.
Nuku Hiva – Mystic Island
The island in the Marquesas known for its towering, spire-like peaks; secluded, lush valleys; ancient religious sites; fjord-like bays; and waterfalls so high that most of the falling water evaporates as it descends. It is the biggest of the islands, formed by two volcanoes resting on top of each another. In 1842, it was the first island to be spied from a whaler by Herman Melville, who wrote it was “a country that no description could fit the beauty.”
Hiva Oa – Paul Gauguin’s Island
This majestic and historic island is known for its wild, untamed landscape, giant stone tiki, endless and unearthly vistas. The town of Atuona is the administrative center for the southern Marquesas. A path up the cliffs behind the village leads to Calvary Cemetery. Here are the simple graves of two men who chose the Marquesas as their final home and resting place, the French painter Paul Gauguin and Belgian singer Jacques Brel. Other sightseeing highlights include a visit to Puamau Village, where Gauguin’s descendents live. In the steamy jungle above this village is the Oipona Me’ae temple and the 8-ft. tall tiki Takaii, the largest stone tiki in Polynesia. Several other stone carvings adorn this quiet spot. Visit the very picturesque village of Hanaiapa; the petroglyphs carved in stone in Eiaone and Punai; the Me’ae temple and black sand beach of Taaoa and the scenic bays of Nahoe and Hanamenu.
The best dining is found at the restaurants at the Nuku Hiva Keikahanui Pearl Lodge and at the Hiva Oa Hanakee Pearl Lodge which features a sweeping panoramic view from every table. These restaurants have creative French dishes influenced by Marquesan fare. An impressive international wine list compliments the ambience while the views overlooking the mountains and bays.
Traditional Marquesan cuisine can also be enjoyed on Nuku Hiva in the villages of Taiohae, Taipivai, and Hatiheu, and on Hiva Oa in Atuona and Puamau
Things To Do in the Marquesas
Gaugain Cultural Center
The Paul Gauguin Cultural Center opened in 2003 on the 100th anniversary of Gauguin’s death. Located on land bought by Gauguin, the center’s exhibition of reproductions leads the visitor through three sections themed around quotes attributed to the artist: “escaping to reach art”, “the right to dare anything in art”, and “becoming part of a primitive culture.”
Archaeological Discovery Safaris
Hidden in the theatre of mountains of the Marquesas is a mother lode of ancient sacred sites including ceremonial complexes, stone temples, and tiki statues. On Nuku Hiva, Taipivai Valley is home to temples and large tiki, while the village of Hatiheu is home to the famous Kamuihei and Hikoku sites known for their petroglyphs and ruins. On Hiva Oa, an immense ceremonial complex in Taaoa Valley has been restored and offers a unique view of the fierce and proud Marquesan heritage.
Woodcarving
Famous for intricate woodcarvings, Marquesans apply ancestral designs seen nowhere else on earth. Carved from precious native woods such as rosewood and purplewood, Marquesan bowls, plates, and statues are highly prized the world over. These treasures can be bought throughout the islands directly from the artists at their studios.
Adventure Cruising
As if living out a classic South Seas seafaring novel, the most unique way to see the Marquesas is aboard the new Aranui 3 freighter/passenger ship. This working cargo ship is the lifeline to the outside world for the inhabitants of these remote islands. Passengers observe the exchange of supplies, copra, dried coconut, and fruit in addition to exploring each of the islands on guided excursions. The 16-day voyage begins in Papeete and includes 17 ports-of-call in the Marquesas and Tuamotu Islands.
